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Roger 2522
Junior Boarder
Posts: 29
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Hardware. A drill, although somewhat slow will tell you if the idea is sound. I think your results are going to depend on the ratio of bronze to resin in your castings. The action of polishing itself is the surface of the material becomes heated to the point the the surface 'moves' thereby closing the spaces between the molecules on the surface. Since resin and broze move at different rates I would proceed with caution so as to not cause the resin to undercut because it will move quicker than the bronze.The buff may want to remove more of the resin than bronze with a resulting wavy or pitted surface. Sand all the way to 600 grit using wet dry sandpaper using water to flush your work. Then use a coarse compound on a buffing whell, buffing first in the direction the 600 grit sanding. Then cross buff at 90 degrees to the first pass. Clean the surface of the sculpture and use a new buffing wheel, never use different compounds on the same wheel as contamination will result, apply the polishing compound and proceed as before. I would work on a test piece first before working on a keeper. Hope this helps, Don S. Thompson, Metalsmith
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orion2061
Junior Boarder
Posts: 27
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I just cold-cast a few pieces and I used Blue Magic metal polish cream that I got at an auto parts store with excellent results.
I am sure any metal polish will work the same. Next on my list to experiment with is Never-Dull.
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