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2 years ago
Guest
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I am looking to make multiple molds using latex (hopefully the dipping method) or urethane and providing a fiberglass mother mold for support. I want to be able to produce a consistent product where I could eventually produce an duplicate latex or urethane lining that will have consistent thickness. I would also like the lining to be able to fit into any of the fiberglass mother molds and vice versa. I have been doing a lot of research on the matter and can't seem to find out how I could produce a consistent rubber inner mold. I would think dipping would give me the best results as I could leave the mold in latex for the same period of time creating a consistent thickness. Again, I'm here for help and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI. are you from the uk or states.or other.

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2 years ago
JASON
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Mick,

How are you? I actually live in the US here in Florida.

Jason

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON. i come from the uk do you have a supplier of latex.assuming you have not used latex before you will need a model ornament or anything you want to copy it is best to have a plaster original to make a mould from as plaster draws in moisture from latex and this helps to make a thick mould if you want to use the dipping method then paint the first coat on with a soft brush let it dry and because it is still fresh put the model in a suitable container large enough pour the latex on top of your model and leave it for several days and the plaster model will have built up enough layers of latex by itself.once you have made the first mould you can cast several more ornaments in plaster and make more moulds at the same time. i will get back to you as im behind in time coming from the uk there is another method on dipping and ill let you know.and also go deeper in info on moulding and fibre glassing.speek to you soon.

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON.continuing from where we left of your model does not have to be plaster and can be made from metal stone or wood if you choose any of the following it would be a good idea to cast the final piece in plaster for production purpose of your latex moulds as i mentioned that latex will thicken up faster on plaster and give a better quality mould with latex there is a number of ways to make your mould that is to paint several coats of latex on letting each coat semi dry.before applying the next.and you would gently lift the bottom of your mould to see if you think it is thick enough to peel of you can ad latex thickener but this would be better used on any of the other materials mentioned including resin.back to dipping latex i mentioned one method on dipping the other dipping method is to simply dip it in the latex several times to build up the layers letting each coat semi dry. i can help you with the mother mould or jacket mould if you need help let me know.good luck. mick.

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2 years ago
JASON
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Hey Mick...thanks for your help. I do have a latex supplier I can use...several over there that will work with me, and I have done some research, knowing that plaster is the best master to use followed by fired clay.

Is there a certain kind of plaster that works best as I know there are several kinds available. I've used plaster of paris for making duplicates and it seems to work okay.

Also, when you do dip the mold into the latex, I understand you can keep it in for an extended period of time to create the thickness you want, but how do you make sure the rest of the latex doesn't dry out? Do you have to put a cover on it as well to prevent this?

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2 years ago
JASON
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Thanks again Mick....I responded to the first email before reading the second....I will most likely use a urethane to create the first mold and then put plaster inside to create an original to use for latex dipping. I'd like to use urethane as well since it tends to have a longer shelf life but I believe that would force me to use a cavity mold to make the consistent thickness I would be needing. As for the mother mold, I'm looking at fiberglass as the medium as it would be more durable and better to resell. I have a company that would make them for me, so that looks good so far. As I asked earlier, is there a better plaster to use for the master? I know the plaster of paris is easy to chip and make adjustments, but I also want something that will be sturdy to keep in storage for future use.

The molds I will be making will be used for ice, so I'm trying to find a food grade erethane....if it even exists since some of the pieces would be created to hold food items like shrimp, etc. Any chance you or anyone else has heard of food grade urethane?

I know there is food grade latex and that silicone is another way to go, but I'm also trying to keep costs down.

Thanks.

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON. yea sorry you would leave it in a container with a lid on it but if you added just a small amount of thickener you would only steep it without a lid for a few hours without a lid.

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON. ill speak to you later about urethane as it sticks like glue ill post you when i come back.

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2 years ago
JASON
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that sounds good...some of the molds I'm looking to create will be rather big...up to three feet tall. Is there a type of plaster you recommend for casting the master piece?


Sounds like I'll need a big tub...I'm including a picture of the end result of what I'd like to come close to producing...as you can see, the fiberglass outer shell is very well made. I'm not sure if this is somehow form fitted mechanically or if it is indeed hand rolled and created for each piece.

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
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Is it a simple model? Can you make a block mold of it?

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2 years ago
JASON
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Hey Gunz.....not really....I could, but we are talking about potential 3-4 foot models. You can see an example of what I am referring to on the picture I had attached to an earlier post....if you can't see it, I'll post it again.

thanks so much!!! BTW...I did watch a few of your videos...very informative...just looking for something that I would be able to sell on a commercial basis.

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
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Opps.. I missed the pic Yes indeed that is a large size. I would find out if fglass is indeed safe as "food contact" or the release you use.. If so you can make a master fglass mold and them produce production molds from that. The model side/ inside of mold will always be the same and if the outer layers aren't, it's not a big deal. Obviously you can only do this on plugs that can be molded with fglass only.

If you make a 2 part silicone mold. Build a box around it and pour your rubber. That should give you a constant result not only in your replication but also in amount of rubber used. Sorry I can't be more help.

O'h and BTW I would imagine the glass is hand laid in the pic. You would be amazed at what people can do with fiberglass. Well just look at autobody alone. If that Ozzy company where you got the pic from is related to cementmolds.com then then probably have Asians building those molds for next to nothing ..well as far as labour costs ..

Thanks for ther kudos on the vids.

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2 years ago
JASON
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Thanks Gunz....well we won't need a release for ice...just let it melt a bit and it slides out.

Not sure what you mean by plugs....is that a standard fiberglass sheet that is pressed into a form?

I figured they have a few masters that they can form around and make a consistent fiberglass mother mold.

It might be a time consuming process, but once masters are done then you're most of the way there. I have a local company that says they can do the fiberglass part in their sleep..they repair boats....so there you go.

Also, Mick was also working helping out, but what is the best plaster to use for master pieces when dipping latex? I want something sturdy that would store well.

Thanks for the help!!

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
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Plugs .. I use it as a term for whats being modeled. So I use it loosly in referance to master /model/plug etc.

I use both hydrocal and drystone for my plaster masters. Both work well for me and have high compression rates. Hydrocal takes a while to dry.
http://www.usg.com/industrial/art-statuary.html

Mick is you best bet on latex and dipping etc

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON. i make large moulds to and the fairy mould that i made in the picture is just over three feet tall.i have larger ones to.all made by hand layup without a gel coat

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2 years ago
JASON
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Very nice...how did you get the white coating look? On the picture I sent...it looks like there is a coating...then fiberglass weave and then another very smooth coating on the outside....how is that achieved?

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON. i first mixed white resin colour paste or pigment with the layup resin at 5% ratio you can use any colour you like or mix the colours together to blend your own. paint some on your latex model and then introduce the fibreglass and wet it out i used 4.b.two wood to make legs because it is top heavy.i leave the latex on the model that i make i did not use a releas agent as 9times ot of 10 i dont you can apply a wax one if you want it does make it a bit easeyer to remove i stick card board around the model with masking tape first and leave it on until i have covered the model when it sets i drill holes for wing nuts as they are faster to spin on and of and then i use a pad saw with a blade for cutting steel.if you make your fibreglass moulds resin rich you will have nice safe smooth moulds i have a large selection of moulds that i made myself and like you no body would tell me how to do it so i learned myself by messing around but now you can by books and videos that are good

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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1Helix.plaster.2 prestia creation plaster. 3 herculite no 2 plaster. 4crystacal-r plaster 5 herculite stone plaster 6 crystacast.plaster 7 crystacal alpha-k plaster.any of the plasters mentioned that you can buy and remember you can roll plaster around inside a mould more than once to create a large hollow model you can even pad it out inside with old cloth etc.to give it strength

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2 years ago
Jason
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That's great info. Do you paint the resin or dip it too? About how many layers both before and after applying the fiberglass do you coat with the resin? Sorry for all the questions but what kind of resin do you use and where would one find it? Also what type of fiberglass do you use most?

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2 years ago
mickpearson
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HI JASON.not at all mate im hear to help.you can type in on your computer glassfibre and resin suppliers neer you i come from scotland in the uk.i use 300.grms mat and i use layup resin and i by cheap layup brushes and acetone to clean my brushes you just wet your mould with resin and because moulds are al different sizes you could use three layers to four layers if you buy 400.gms thickness you would use less but you would wet it out well as you paint it on in other words be generous with painting it on to your fibreglass nothing beets experience and nothing beets failure but a try.

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2 years ago
mickpearson
Master
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HI GUNZ. sorry i cant understand what you men't can you hit me with it again mate. please forgive my ignorance.most of my latex is painted on gunz is that what you men't ?

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
Platinum Member
Blogs: 2
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mickpearson wrote:
HI GUNZ. sorry i cant understand what you men't can you hit me with it again mate. please forgive my ignorance.most of my latex is painted on gunz is that what you men't ?


I'm lost too?
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2 years ago
mickpearson
Master
Blogs: 21
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Votes: 52

mick is you best bet on latex and dipin etc.link 15

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
Platinum Member
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Votes: 8

I thought you did some dipp'n?

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2 years ago
mickpearson
Master
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yea gunz some.i mostly paint it on but had experience in other methods ?

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2 years ago
mickpearson
Master
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HI GUNZ did you like my work link 16.

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2 years ago
GunZ McGraw
Platinum Member
Blogs: 2
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Votes: 8

Same .. I find painting works the best for me

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2 years ago
mickpearson
Master
Blogs: 21
Forum: 2,921
Votes: 52

HI JASON.did you find a supply of resin near you.?

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2 years ago
Jason
Guest

Hey Mick. Sorry for the late reply. Been busy with my kids. I have a local company 10 miles from me that can supply me with fiberglass matting in just about any style as well as resin. This is what they carry. They also sell epoxy and polyester resins. I'm assuming epoxy would work best. Below is what they carry. So you apply a couple coats of resin first then add the fiberglass? Thats what it looks like from the pieces I have. Also, what protective gear do you wear when working with these materials? They suggest a respirator (which I can definitely see using when shaping the finished piece to avoid breathing in any fiberglass particles as well as eyewear).

When choosing a hardener many variables must be considered including working temperature, desired cure time, working time, pot life and your desired post production properties.

We have three hardener systems to choose from.
The (2:1)#556 slow hardener is meant for tropical conditions(above 80 degrees). This hardener also cures as the most flexible laminate.

The 3:1 Medium hardener is our best all-purpose hardener. You can use it in temperatures down to approximately 55 degrees and still get a 24 hour dry time. This is our most user-friendly hardener for most applications.

The 4:1 Fast hardener is also an excellent hardener. You can use this hardener down to 45 degrees. Caution should be taken when working with large batches


Chopped Strand Mat: Approx. 2 pounds of resin for 1 pound of mat
Fiberglass Woven Cloth: Approx. 1 pound of resin for 1 pound of cloth
Biaxial (1708,1208,1808): Approx. 1-1/2 pounds of resin for 1 pound of biaxial
Carbon Fiber and Kevlar Cloths: Approx. 1 pound of resin for 1 pound of cloth

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