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Posted 5 Months, 4 Weeks ago
Merrill571
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Posts: 49
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I'm in the process of creating several molds that have to be transparent. Having decided on a rubber compound from Smooth-On that meets the necessary criteria there is one other hurdle to overcome
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Posted 5 Months, 4 Weeks ago
Elcubasigsda
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I have had the same battles with rubber over the years, always trying to achieve that perfect, first time mold. It is possible, if you have lots of practise with the same type mold, same materials, same size, same tools, same climate, etc. It reminds me that it is also possible to finish an 18hole golf course in 18 shots - at least the technical experts will tell you its possible, as will a computer simulation. But the real world needs putters, sand wedges, imaginative curses and maybe even less technical perfection.

So, like it or not, you will need to know how to fix bubbles, tears and rips. It is not that difficult. Buy some glue syringes from a woodworking supplier (I like www.leevalley.com) and just inject the bubbles with freshly mixed rubber. This is best performed before you do any casting, and any possible mold release and/or uncured rubber must be removed. Also, go to a fiber glass shop and get some 'surface veil' glass cloth - like tissue paper but made with glass. You can make bandages with this to reinforce weak or ripped sections. With a serious weakness you will have to buildup quite a bit and then grind away the 'mother mold' (if you are using one) to accomodate this new bump. Get some good, sharp, scalpel type blades and fine scissors (also leevalley).

If a quality mold is 'job one', you might try switching to the clear silicone rubbers - but I have never used them. Generally the silicones give much finer detail and are easier to work with - they are worth their weight in gold, but priced accordingly. Mostly jewellers use the clear??? So they can do difficult cuts??

ps. you might try Polytek rather than Smoothon - this is personal experience only, based on technical support issues alone. Polytek also advises pressure casting to remove the bubbles, if you still want to pursue a mechanical solution this might be the way to go - curing the mold under pressure and controlled heat.
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Posted 5 Months, 4 Weeks ago
swarnavel_mp
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Posts: 50
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Yes, I know that feeling. I think it's moisture emerging from the pattern, and I'd use whatever sealer they recommend. Vacuuming the mold the full pot life is not necessary and may draw more gases (wet gases) from the pattern. I'd seal rhe sh** out of the pattern, vacuum the mixed resin, and vacuum briefly after pouring.
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Posted 5 Months, 4 Weeks ago
1blue
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Posts: 56
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Thanks for the tips. The bubbles in my case are around 5 mils in diameter and so numerous that treating them seems impossible.
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago
brenton
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Posts: 40
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Yes, it could be the pattern but I'm trying to eliminate the release agent first by not using it and see what happens. If it still bubbles up then I'll cure just the compound without the pattern and see. The vacuum chamber approach is on the back burner for now after seeing the price of vacuum pumps and I don't want to use one of those cheap gizmos that uses compressed air to create a vacuum.
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago
Tradingsfuture
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Posts: 57
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Which mold compound are you using? Are the bubbles also in the left over material in the mixing container?
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago
Arlo Tol
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Posts: 58
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Word of CAUTION. Be absolutely certain that the pressure vessel you are using is designed for the pressure used. We all learn from our mistakes as long as we live through them. Pressure cookers and autoclaves are built to withstand one atmosphere and are rated somewhere in the range of 15 to 20 psi. Paint pots are a good source for higher pressures, usually 50 psi and up and are not too expensive. In order to eliminate the bubbles caused by moisture reaction, only one atmosphere(15 psi) is needed. Additional pressure can reduce the size of bubbles caused by air entrapment during mixing, pouring and insufficient venting.
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago
Lucretia
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Posts: 37
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Sounds like you are well on track! You know to make sure there is a water/condensation filter on the incoming air -just a simple cartridge?

The next step, that I know the fine quality modelmakers use, is to build a box for the chamber, in the bottom put some sixty watt lightbulbs on a dimmer, and a cheap (but quiet fan), an insulated lid - this way you can now introduce heat to the equation, not only for constant, repeatable results, but also for stronger, faster curing parts and molds.
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Posted 5 Months, 3 Weeks ago
rbateman
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Posts: 50
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Yes, I'm using a filter already. Hey, thanks for the tips.
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