Dipping Plaster statue's into latex.
I have a ornament made from herculite 2, I left it dry untill it was light. I then got some latex in a bin and tryed dipping the statue. I tryed to do it as slow as I could and not create any air bubbles but when I was finshed the latex has quite a few timy air holes in it. Is there any method for dipping plaster ornaments? Thanks
HI SWANSEA JACK. before you dip it paint the first coat to burst the bubbles.
I've dipped with limited success but I know it can be done. You'll never get rid of all bubbles on latex. When I put on my bi-focals all I see is bubbles but, when I don't wear them the latex looks good. Point is they don't transfer to the inside of the mold thus onto the casting. Are the bubbles on the outside after you dip or are they showing up on the casting? Anyhow you can try painting your first layer then dip. You can leave the model suspended in the latex for 2 to 6 hours instead of up and down. Have a can of vinegar handy that you casting will fit into. When you pull your mold out of the latex after enough time suspended to build up the required thickness dip it in the vinger to stop the latex from running all over. It will solidify(sp?) instanly. Mind you only do this if it's thick enough as latex will not bond after. Also did you seal your plaster cast?
keep the vinegar for your chips
Now the coin has dropped. Thanks very much.
No I Didint seal the plaster as I didnt think I needed to. Thanks for your help
attached is photo of one of the holes
holes on the outside don't matter you can put some latex on with your finger when the latex is still fresh.you don't have to seal the plaster either paint the first coat of latex then dip the rest another good way is to heat the model if small enough in an oven gently but not to hot
Ummm. Sound like you don't like my advice. This forum was setup for the exchange of ideas and help. Not out right dismissal of ones past experiences
" keep it for your chips ".. And they made you a moderator .. lol"
HI GUNZ. its not like that at all.vinegar is no good on latex its a fact you can build layers of latex up with it but its only for messing around with like if you pore a pint of latex into two pints of vinegar you can make a ball for kicking around but not for moulds as the mould will be weak from the acid.i do like your advice but we cant always be right i have got it wrong a few times and people have helped me by telling me where i went wrong on this site i like to share views to gunz. not take the mick out of people so im sorry if ive hurt your feelings
I have heard of warming the plaster mould first in an oven.
I have similar probs at the moment with air bubbles
HI MAD JACK. you don't need to warm the model in the oven. unless you are making a mould like swansea jack. you can burst the air bubbles just by painting the first coat of latex on. and then dip the rest.warming it in the oven helps to build up the latex layers as well. but you dont have to
Me too. I have heard about warming in an oven, but seems an expensive way of production. I did try it once, but with limited success
Another resurected forum post eh...lol
The answer to your problems id as follows:
Wet your master with water first as I assume it's at least somewhat pores. this will help prevent the bubles from forming in the first place.
second, brush on a thin coat right before you dip it.... should eliminate 99% of your bubbles
It's a good idea to brush on the first coat of latex.
But very quickly it sets on the brush, making it difficult to use.
Or is there any way of cleaning the latex from the brush?
Water won't work.
Yes..I have the same prob sometimes when dipping.
You have to seal these holes using a spatula or knife edge, thus stopping the problem.
As the latex starts to set it can be easier.
hey zombie i thought you liked the living dead long may they be resurected.lol
I like the idesa of painting the first coat on to prevent bubbles, but there i nothing to clean the dried latex from the brush as not even nail varnish seems to work
HELLO IAN WILLIAMS. to stop latex from congealing like blood to your brush. you are supposed to dip your brush in warm water like zombie said but containing a few drops of dish soap. apparently this is the best thing to do in anybody's book. but iv'e never done this myself. might try it sometime.the best way that i do it is to put some latex in a container and get a big hunk of latex on your brush and slap it on your plaster model.be generous with every coat in one go when your model is completely covered stick your brush in the tub of latex. this helps to stop it building up on your brush lying around. make sure the brush stays upright or it will be messy. you will be able to make two or three moulds if you leave the brush in and keep topping up your latex don't let it run dry and keep it above your brush when your brush is to badly used. iv'e got brushes from last year that i was to lazy to clean. as i have a set of cheap but good quality brushes from B@Q d.i.y do it your self store. that i can still clean using fire or green house heater full. steep your brushes for 24 hours but make sure you clean it of thoroughly. with plenty of water and dish soap or it will ruin your latex moulds on the next time you make them with the same brush. so give it a good rinse of and dry.
hear in the uk it is called paraffin.
so your leprosy corns zombie looking really cool.
coat your brush in dish soap before applying latex and wash it off with cold water right after... you'll get tons of coats outta the same brush by doing this.
Thanks for the tip of using paraffin for brush cleaning, will try this.
use a basin to wash your brush as all the bits of mushy latex will float in the water with plenty of dish soap. then use an old cloth to thoroughly dry your brush it will take latex of that has been on your brush for years.
Thanks, Great site by the way. Only just found it. Its gonna be really useful.
still don't know what you make do you have any pics of your lot.
Actually Gunz was correct the acid in vinegar causes it to solidify instantly.
I only mention this since you dug the thread up mick.
yea but he was wrong for mould making so he was wrong.and that is what i said that you cant use it for mould making i only give people information in good faith.