HERE ARE THE “BEFORE” AND “AFTER” PICTURES,in case you don’t want to go to the other posting.
Enough of the old - on with the new!
And a quick look at who will be on the “good” or “naughty” pages this Christmas at
Chorley’s BIRKACRE GARDEN CENTRE where this particular Santa will be appearing! .
” Merry Christmas to one and all!” ( when it comes) , - from Tony!]]>
One way is to stuff old rags and newspaper inside the mould then arrange it into the shape it should be before making the mother mould. Next, coat the outside with resin then let it set. Now, you can make the mother mould as you have something solid to work on.
Here is what I do with a bought mould before making a fibreglass mother mould:
Below is a latex mould with plaster support. The mould was created from a resin ornament of an otter. I wanted to cast it in plaster and make a good latex mould and fibreglass of it.
The pictures below are of the sphere is a polystyrene sphere that I bought. The sphere comes in two halves that click together so I’m making a mould of both sides using the one half. When I cast them this way, they will fit together to make one sphere.
To make them a solid hollow, I’m using a cardboard tube for a pour hole. The pink rubber I’m using is silicone. Someone said you can’t use silicone on polystyrene, so I had to try it out and I found silicone does not melt polystyrene as was said.
You can also support a mould using expandable foam from D.I.Y stores. The foam is sprayed onto the moulds, which you should cover with cling film before; the cling wrap will help act as a release agent. However, using this method, like an orange, you will have to cut through the segments to part the mother mould. The result will not be too soft or hard. I used to buy the foam in tins and mix my own, but it is better made outside. It does not smell, but the chemicals are not good so care must be taken.]]>
1) This one I call the Watery Black Wash..
Get an old plastic pot, and put a dob of cheap (B&Q tester paints work great) black emulsion and a very small amount of yellow. Then add water and mix it. Make it watery, but don’t drown it. You have to experiment, but I gauge it by tipping the pot 45 degrees and watching to see how much pigment runs back down the side of the pot, or dob some on my hand and rub it to see how much pigment there is.
Take your raw ornament (no paints, nothing done to it) and a 1/2 inch brush and then, assuming the ornament is not too big, hold it in a way that will allow the paint to pool into the grooves. Then begin painting it on fast, but don’t drown it. Try not to let the paint run because it will streak and dry very, very fast and you can’t hide those streaks. Work your way around the ornament - letting the paint settle in.
At first it will look just wet and not very good, but after it’s dried fully, you should have a nice shading.
Whilst it’s wet, don’t be tempted to touch up an area, because it will end up darker in that spot.
Downside with this technique is that it doesn’t work great on smoother surfaced ornaments, and is hard to get a consistent result. However, it can work great on stuff like the bird statue in the photo above.
Picture shows before and after using this technique:
2) Acrylic Dead Flat Matte Clear Sealer
This is definitely the best way to do this in my experience. Search online for dead flat matte acrylic sealer (they use it on oil paintings to seal them). You can dilute the sealer 3-1 with water and it still works great on ornaments.
Paint your ornament all over with a coat of the acrylic. Let it dry completely.
Now, make a slightly watery black wash (you can use dark brown too - it looks good), but not too watery, you want the paint to stay fairly runny, but not watery. Again, I use emulsion.
Get a slightly damp old rag, and begin painting over a small area of the ornament, then wipe it off - you will have really nice control over how much you can wipe off.
3) Ghosting/Dry Brush Technique
Paint the ornament totally black all over and let it dry. Then try a medium/light grey paint… Your brush should be fairly stiff - I buy those really cheap brushes and cut the bristles down. Dob your brush into the grey paint and then paint it onto an old bit of wood or you can use an old rag - anything to take the paint off the brush. You want hardly any paint on the brush…
Now, begin flicking across the surface of the ornament so you basically highlight it - with some practice you will see it’s a really easy technique. You have to keep putting paint on the brush and wiping it off again, but you can do this technique pretty quickly.
You can also experiment with different colours. For example, I painted a Buddha in jade green and dry brushed him with gold and it looked great.
This lion was done using a black base and a medium grey.
Hope this helps Tracy!]]>
Release agents are not needed for pouring concrete or plaster into latex moulds, but sometimes people find a mould with a complex shape that will give them a problem when removing it from a casting. This only happens now and again, so it’s nothing to worry about.
With complex shapes, it is usually recommended to coat the outside of the latex mould with washing up liquid to help the mould slip off when you peel it off. However, washing up liquid can knacker a latex mould through prolonged use as the chemicals in the liquid are bad for the latex, although washing up liquid will not harm silicone for a longer time.
Alternatively, you can use baby powder to do the same job, and it’s better on the latex. Of course, this doesn’t entirely rule out the use of washing up liquid if it is really needed.
In normal casting of plaster or concrete, you will not need a release agent for rubber moulds. If you are using hard plastic moulds or any other rigid mould, then you will need a release agent. The release agents for these moulds can be a wax spray or a rub on wax.
If you are making moulds then that’s when a release agent might be needed depending on the application since silicone moulds and latex moulds don’t usually need a release agent when making the moulds.]]>
One way to thicken the undercuts up on the latex is to use powdered car tyres and paste that in the latex. I’ve never done it that way, but lots of other mould makers have and they say it’s a good method for them. However, I use a different method.
I have made some really hard moulds with undercuts and I found that rounding the deep undercuts before adding the fibreglass made the fibreglass come off easier and not get stuck in the deep undercuts.
I put the flange around a mould before laying it up with fibreglass
Here are the pics of the lion:
If you look at the lion, you will see how deep the undercuts are in the leg areas. I have a base for the lion too, but it’s not sharp like the lion and all I did was round the edges off so the fibreglass wouldn’t stick once I put the latex on.
To round the edges off, you can use car body filler or clay. You could also use masking tape if you only want to round the edges, but not shape it too much. After this, you can add the fibreglass. If you look at the fibreglass inside and out you will see how it is rounded without taking the detail away from the lion.
I use masking tape and tape cardboard around my latex moulds and I make the mould in sections. Doing this also helps you to get the fibreglass off the mould. I recommend making four or five parts, but it’s up to you how many sections you think you will need, depending on the complexity of the model. I leave the cardboard on then fibreglass all the sections in one go, letting each side dry. I do not remove any cardboard until the entire mother mould is made.
Then, when it has cured, I get a saw and cut around the flange, leaving room to drill holes for nuts and bolts. Then get a chisel to separate the sections. If I use cardboard, I don’t need a release agent as the cardboard is left on and then fibreglassed. But, there is no harm in using a release agent for the bits that touch the latex mould design, like the sections with undercuts.
I don’t use gel coat either, but its good if you want it to have a nice smooth coat. I normally make sure I give the mould a good wet out with resin and that does the same. A release agent is smart thinking, but I don’t use it on my latex. I find it sticks just a little, but it’s not bad.
You can use a moderately thick cardboard, in between thick and thin. I introduce the cardboard to the latex that is on my model and draw a profile with a pen. Then I cut the shape out, not too close to my line, and then push the cardboard on and put my masking tape around the line of latex and cardboard. It doesn’t need to be tidy looking, as long as you make it strong it will not move when you start the layup with fibreglass.
I also made a large skull mould and, before I fibreglassed it, I filled in the eye sockets with air drying clay. If I had pushed the fibreglass into where the eye sockets were, I would not have been able to get the fibreglass off the mould. Remember, every undercut will have to be chamfered, rounded off.
I have well over 200 moulds. Most of the moulds were made by me, but I bought a lot of moulds without a fibreglass back up mould so I had took some old rags (my t-shirts) and old newspaper and stuffed them inside the latex to make sure the mould was in shape. Then, I painted resin around the mould and let it set. Then, I put cardboard around it and fibreglassed it. This worked like a treat. So, if you buy any moulds without a backup, try it and see.]]>
the other picture is of the things I have made the moulds of so far so much easier than that big-ol-lion……….]]>
Within my first week a woman paid me 100.00 dollars to make her a mold of a rock and pays me 35.00 per rock that I make for her that just excited me!! I thought well that’s not getting me rich but its a start.
I have currently made 10 molds for my concrete statues that have turned out great and I have sold quite a few of the pieces that I have made with them so just maybe this was not a bad idea that I have here.
I found this website to find help with a lion statue that I am doing. A man brought me this statue and asked if I could make him two just like it out of concrete (it was plaster) once again I was shocked that this man was willing to pay me to do this I was like sure I can do it put it in my truck the whole time thinking whew this is going to be hard I don’t know if I can do this or not!!
I have had this lion for two weeks now and I will be fiberglassing it tomorrow I found help from mickpearson on here he has been great and hopefully with his help I can get this done and it will be great!!
I dream would be to quit my day job and work from home around my six year old daughters schedule instead of her having to work around mine so please wish me luck on this adventure I will post some pictures later of how this turns out thanks for reading!!!]]>
here are some of the work I have done … This is for my friends Mick and Tony also anyone else who would love to see my work… It isn’t too much but I will post more advance sculptures as I go along. I’m working in my grandest ever I can’t wait to share with you guys …]]>
Is that a bell or a bottle of Bell’s he’s hiding behind his back? Judging by his face,I think it was the latter!!
This really was after a “night on the tiles!”
And now we see Santa after a few weeks in Re-hab…..
I think we can see a few improvements,and he should be ready for Dec. 25th.
All reports of a drunken Santa have been Officially denied and that he WAS and indeed IS
holding a BELL,and NOT a bottle of Bell’s whiskey!
In this shot we can clearly see the “clapper” protruding from the aforementioned bell.
A sneak preview of who will be on the “good” or “naughty” pages at Chorley’s Birkacre
Garden Centre this year!
And one final picture of the restored Santa Claus,hope you like him! - Tony.
I hope you’ll agree with me when I say I think Santa looks a hundred years younger now!]]>